DIARY OF MY GAP YEAR

Letty and Binary at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage in Sri Lanka



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"Time out from that routine existence they call reality is something everyone should experience. [A voluntary project] will change your perceptions, and you never know… it might even change your life. It certainly changed mine."

Letitia Hardy

It’s January 3rd, my rucksack is packed, strapped up and ready to go. Whatever I have forgotten now, I will have to live without. It is strange that the necessary contents of my life fit in a bag that I will carry with me for the next year. “Passport, tickets, money… passport, tickets, money”.

I take a deep breath… my mum is waiting downstairs for me, to take me to the airport, a tearful farewell, a few steps and then I am off. I take a final look around my room, haul my bag onto my back and feel a surge of extreme excitement, or is it pure fear?! Either way I feel alive and it is time for the journey to begin.

It is something you memorise by heart, your itinerary, and my first stop was Sri Lanka. This had come about unexpectedly, having suddenly found myself alone in my quest for travel I would surf the internet during my clock-watching temp job for stories of inspiration from hot, exotic locations. It was during one of these searches that I stumbled across the website for ‘Travellers Worldwide’ an organisation that arranges voluntary work abroad.

From the many appealing options from teaching to conservation to work experience placements, I was particularly drawn to two projects. An ‘Ocean Safari’ project in South Africa, monitoring dolphins and marine life, and an ‘Elephant Experience’ in Sri Lanka’s famous Pinawala Elephant Orphanage. Heart pounding, I immediately phoned them for a brochure and more information. They were really friendly on the phone and understood my nerves, and my excitement. I eventually opted for the Sri Lankan placement. It was the appeal of deserted beaches, washing elephants in a river at sunset, ripe fruit, big smiles and a destination so different to England in every way that seduced me. This was the experience I yearned for!

On arriving in Sri Lanka it was clear that I had found exactly what I was searching for. The dusty orange streets, the barefooted children waving at me, the wooden road side shacks selling strange sweets and king coconuts, a cow standing in the middle of the road holding up crazy traffic, new smells and breathtaking scenery. I felt as far away from the 9-5 life of a London winter as was possible and I could not control the massive grin that had taken over my face and was to stay there for a while.

I was met at the airport by the Travellers Sri Lankan Manager who was friendly and warm and kept up a running commentary of Sri Lanka as he drove me the bumpy road to the Elephant Orphanage, 2 and a half hours north of the airport. In my jet-lagged haze I felt relaxed and delighted, the air smelt moist with humidity and heavy with lotus flowers and big leaved plants. As I sat back to enjoy the journey and my first impressions of this extraordinary country I realised that the hardest part had been getting here, the bravery required to book the ticket and go it alone. Now I was here I could simply enjoy it and I was going to!

We went straight up to Pinawala where I met the other volunteers and got shown around the village. Some of the other volunteers had already been in Sri Lanka for some time and they told me their stories of Christmas and New Year at the beaches, stories of climbing mountains at sun rise and of their many other explorations around the island. I listened in fascination. Everyone was friendly, happy and relaxed and a shiver of pure joy shot through me.

It was dark when I arrived and I began my work the following day. We were to help the mahouts look after the elephants. This involved cleaning and mucking out in the mornings and washing the baby elephants in the river in the afternoons. I also got to know the vets on site and would occasionally observe their work around the orphanage.

I was pleased to see that the elephants spent most of their time roaming free around the large expanse of the orphanage. For a third world country, it was obvious that these particular animals commanded an impressive degree of respect from the natives. Many of the elephants had been rescued from the wild after such things as land mine accidents. Many had been orphaned after their parents were killed for their ivory tusks. This Orphanage was one of largest and most successful breeding centres in the world and the more I got to understand the strong yet gentle nature of these creatures, the greater my appreciation of these efforts became.

My first day was hot, tiring and exhilarating. After a delicious dinner of traditional rice and curry (eaten in culture, with the fingers of my right hand) and some nice chats with my fellow volunteers I fell into a deep and dream fuelled sleep. After the first few days, the days began to melt into each other, they were slow, which was just how I wanted them. There is just no rush in Sri Lanka and I gradually got to know my new environment, the animals and became a familiar face in the local community.

Pinawala is a little rural village with quiet evenings and a small, close community. This is real Sri Lanka. There is one main dusty track, lined with a few stalls and shops selling camera films, fizzy drinks, sarongs, coconut elephant gifts and handmade crafts. At one end of this road is the river, wide and long and enclosed by banana trees and lush vegetation. At the other end is the Elephant Orphanage, home to 72 rescued or bred elephants.

Twice a day the entire elephant herd, including Sama, the three legged elephant and the three playful babies, trundle together down the narrow orange track to the river for their 2 hour bathe. This is one spectacular sight. It made my heart miss a beat and even at the time I knew this was a memory that will stay forever vivid. For two months I watched this scene twice each day.

Quite suddenly you realise you have settled in, you notice how brown you’ve become, how easily and often you laugh with your new friends and how comfortable you are living in this rural village that looks like something out of ‘The Jungle Book’! You also realise it’s been almost 2 weeks since you’ve emailed home and thoughts of what you left behind have drifted away while you were busy enjoying your moment. Life has suddenly become wonderfully simple.

I did get sick once, from the change in the diet, but the support offered by the organisation and the Travellers Manager was brilliant - on an emotional level as well. I was taken straight to a doctor and given medicine and I felt better within a few days.

A new routine soon ensued. We would work Monday to Friday and then all set off for our weekend jaunt wherever our ‘Lonely Planet’ travel guide lured us. These adventures started with the beaches. Waking up to a fresh juice, a hammock and a glittering blue ocean inviting you in every morning was spectacular. All the locals were very friendly, from the beach sarong sellers to the guest house owners.

The bus journeys there were always interesting. We would choose to travel the cheapest way, which meant the ‘local’ way. The perception of personal space in Sri Lanka is different to home. A bus is not full until it is literally impossible for yet another lunatic to hang out of its doors.

Our other trips included the chaotic mayhem of the bustling cities of Kandy and Colombo, ancient cities, mountains, pilgrimages and Buddha painted temples and caves. The choices were endless. Most of the other volunteers had also come away alone and everyone had the same like-minded attitude – to experience and absorb everything! We got on very well, I never felt lonely and in fact some life long friends were made here.

I was due to leave Sri Lanka on Valentines Day. My next destination was Thailand. Despite trying to extend my flight ticket and time in this country that had grown to feel like home, I had to say my goodbyes. Life in Sri Lanka was good and as the end drew closer I felt an extreme range of emotions. Sadness at having to say goodbye, mixed with a comforting certainty that I would be returning here one day. Excitement about the next phase of my journey tinged with nostalgia at the ending of such a wonderful chapter. The overwhelming emotion however, was a proud and positive one. Personally I had accomplished so much in my short time here. I was ready to take on anything now. I was no longer scared of the unknown, but quite addicted to it! My confidence had grown as had my self-reliance, patience and empathy.

The rest of my trip throughout Asia and Indonesia brought many new experiences, extreme highs and lows, but Sri Lanka, as my first country will always hold a special place in my memory.

One year and many adventures later, I returned home to London, Heathrow. My mum was waiting there with a big hug in the spot I had left her before, all those lifetimes ago. I had grown up in the intervening months and I felt ready to take on the biggest challenge of them all - my future!

After some weeks adjusting to being back home, I contacted Travellers Worldwide, the organisation who had helped me so much at the very beginning, for a position in their company. My experiences away and the person I had become seemed to be relevant qualification for the position and I was lucky enough to secure the job.

I subsequently learnt that Travellers only employ ex-volunteers and that my experiences gained through travelling was in fact a pre-requisite to the job. I moved down to Brighton, to live again by the sea.

I am now the person responsible for co-ordinating the projects in Sri Lanka and I organise the experience for new volunteers each day. I had my first trip back to Sri Lanka, as the UK co-ordinator, just before Christmas and it was as enchanting as I remembered.

The achievements of a gap year away cannot be measured. It looks good on your CV, certainly, but the real accomplishment is internal. The first hand experience of seeing the world offers the opportunity to break boundaries and test your limits. You come back stronger for it and with a bank of special memories and life-long friends.

Time out from that routine existence they call reality is something everyone should experience. It will change your perceptions, and you never know… it might even change your life.
It certainly changed mine.

Letty Hardy
Travellers
letitia@travellersworldwide.com





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