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A typical summary of the 4 Day / 3
Night Trek also known as the Qeros expedition goes more or less like
this:
- Day One: On the way to visit the Qeros community, swim in
waterfalls!
- Day Two: Trek to the native community of Qeros crossing streams,
pastures and thick forest. Experience traditional storytelling,
ancient skills like mating fire with sticks and trying bamboo cooked
meals.
- Day Three: Walk into the forest and learn about the Qeros
medicinal plants and later try your hand at traditional rainforest
archery.
- Day four: Rafting on balsa wood rafts and visit to the Queros
Sacred Rock
The Qeros Expedition (4 Day / 3 Night Trek) by Nick Webber:
The volunteers and I recently went on a 4 day expedition to visit
the Qeros native community. Along the way we stayed at a Lodge near
Atalaya, swam in a waterfall and were entertained by the resident
howler monkeys. We also saw the ‘cock of the rock’; the bright red
national bird of Peru.
On day two we went on a 2 hour trek through the forest to the Qeros
village guided by Freddie, a member of the Qeros community. It was a
hot day and we crossed streams, pastures and thick forest. As soon
as we arrived at the Qeros village we went for a swim in the river
then ate a lunch of yucca and chicken cooked in bamboo.
After Lunch a village elder sung a traditional story while the
children acted out the tale in the form of a dance. One of the boys
dressed as a Jaguar and the others pretended to spear him and then
carry him back to the village as a trophy. It was quite
entertaining, if only because the boys giggled throughout.
As the performance came to a close some of the ladies of the village
came and sat on the grass with us and showed us how to make
handicrafts in the Qeros fashion. We first made fertility necklaces
out of red, grey and black seed-pods and watched a demonstration of
how to make small woven baskets. The village elder who had earlier
sung, changed out of his traditional clothes (a dress made from the
fibres of a local vine) and appeared in a baseball cap, jeans and a
T shirt to show us how to make arrows. He carved a dark hard wood
with his knife, and Phil, one of the volunteers, sat beside him and
became a willing initiate.
After that we enjoyed a game of football; Qeros versus Volunteers,
with the Qeros barefoot and us in hiking boots. It was a long game
which ended in darkness with an 8 all draw. The Qeros were ahead
until the last minute when Dionisio, our guide, scored a goal from
20 yards out. Exhausted, we went back to our hut to shower and get
ready for dinner, which was again Yucca and chicken.
In the evening Freddie showed us how to make fire with two sticks.
It took about 10 minutes of hard work first to see smoke and then to
ignite a ball of dried grass, though once that was lit the fire did
not take long to get going. Within a few minutes we were all sitting
round the bonfire and over the course of the evening we listened to
songs and stories told by different members of the community.
The following morning we were up at 7 to go on a forest walk to
learn about medicinal plants used by the Qeros, including a yellow
plant one can chew for toothache, a tree sap that is ingested to
clear stomach parasites and another tree sap that helps wounds to
heal quickly. Before entering the forest Freddie painted everyone’s
faces with red dye to ward off evil forest spirits.
A Breakfast of Yucca and Chicken followed the tour and after that we
took part in an archery contest using a traditional bow. We fired at
a target around 30 yards away which I thought would be easy to hit.
However, I was wrong; The bow was large and unwieldy and I managed
to hit the target just once. Jesse, one of the volunteers won with a
near bullseye. It is safe to say that if any of the Qeros had taken
part in the competition I am sure they would have been much better
at it..
As it was our last day we packed our bags and went down to the river
to take part in the rafting trip which was to be our last activity.
We boarded two balsa-wood rafts, crouching for stability while two
Qeros men stood at either end with long poles and pushed their way
through the rapids. At halfway the boats stopped and we headed in to
the forest to see a sacred rock which has been used by the Qeros for
generations as a meeting place between different native communities
and also as a place to ask forest spirits for protection. We arrived
in a clearing where we found a large volcanic rock covered in white
symbols and patterns. Freddie instructed us to remove our shoes so
that we could climb on top to look at the symbols. Unfortunately he
was unable to tell us the significance of each symbol as he told us
over the past century many church missionaries ‘re educated’ the
local communities, causing them to forget much of their old beliefs
and heritage.
Before I left I spoke with ‘Arturo’, another Qeros member, who said
despite the fact that tourism is new to the Qeros he believes it is
a positive thing as it gives them a means of surviving in a more or
less traditional manner, and helps them stick together as a
community too: Before they had begun admitting tourists Arturo told
me many Qeros had left the village to find work in towns and cities.
Freddie, our guide, had himself left though he has now returned and
is back living in the reserve with his family. Arturo hopes that
through tourism they can keep living in the forest for generations
to come.
The end of our visit with the Qeros came that afternoon with the
balsa-wood rafts moored on the river bank. We ate our lunch of Yucca
and Chicken out of Banana leaves, said our goodbyes and walked back
across the bridge. The last I remember is Freddie, Arturo and others
laying on the river bank in the sun, smiling and sucking on Chicken
bones.
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